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   Proper Shoe Fitting


14 Mar 2008 02:11:36
| Dr. Jeffrey A. Oster, Medical Director Of


'If the shoe fits, wear it' is only part of the equation we look at when fitting shoes. Shoes mean so many different things to so many people. For some, the primary consideration is style. For some, it's function. And for others it may be comfort. But more times than not, shopping for the perfect pair of comfortable shoes is a struggle. Let's talk a little bit about how we bring all of these issues together to put a smile on people's faces.

I own a shoe store and I'm often asked "what's the best shoe for me?" Well, that all depends. 'What's the best shoe for me' is often a decision that's made first thing in the morning. You're thinking about your day; that meeting at 11am, lunch with so and so and the social gathering after work. You're also choosing your outfit for the day. A charcoal suit, work clothes or a red dress. Initially, the 'shoe decision' is made based more on esthetics and function than comfort. It's not until late in the day that you say to yourself, 'boy, I love these shoes but they're killing my feet". Our job in the comfort shoe industry is to find a shoe that fits your criteria for both comfort and style. As you're getting ready in the morning, if you say "there's those cute little shoes that make my feet feel so good" then we know we've done a good job.

Feet have been measured for years by something called a Brannock Device. The Brannock Device is used to measure three basic dimensions of the foot; heel to the ball (HB) of the foot , heel to the tip of the toes (HT) and width. Each of the measurements obtained using a Brannock Device are used in combination to custom fit the shoe. The most important measurement is the heel to the ball of the foot. The HB measurement most closely resembles how the shoe is designed to function. Although the heel to toe (HT) measurement may intimately decide the fit of the shoe, the HB measurement is what makes a shoe feel and function well. The HB measurement defines the position of the arch, the length of the shank and the location in the sole where the shoe will bend with each step. If the HB measurement is incorrect, the shoe and the foot will never function in harmony, instead they'll fight each other with each and every step.

Most feet will swell approximately one shoe size (5%) over the course of a day. It's wise to measure your feet after you've been on them for several hours. One measurement that The Brannock Device doesn't measure is volume within the shoe. As you feet swell, they begin to take up more and more volume within the shoe. Therefore, try to remember to shop for shoes later in the day.

The science of shoe fitting, called Pedorthics, is centuries old. The first documented history of shoe fitting dates back to 1324AD when King Edward II of England decreed that three barley corns would constitute and inch. He also stated that one barley corn (1/3") would represent one full shoe size. This custom of sizing varied so that numerous arguments ensued and most cobblers went back to the tradition of custom fitting each and every shoe. The expense of custom shoes was out of reach for most commoners. For the vast majority of the population, shoes consisted of two layers of leather, one thick for the sole and another thin for the top of the shoe. The two layers were sewn together for a 'custom' fit.

Although we've worn shoes for thousands of years, our current sizing methods are a mere century old. In 1880, the first uniform shoe sizing method was introduced in by Edwin B. Simpson of New York. Simpson's method defined each incremental shoe size as 1/3" and each half size as 1/6". In addition to a standardized length size, Simpson defined the heel to ball measurement and the first proportional relationship between length and width of the shoe. The measurement of the width of the shoe increased in increments of 1/4" per increase in shoe size. Going from an A width to a B would increase the circumferential measurement of the foot by 1/4". In the same light, going from a size 7 to a size 8 would also increase the inner dimension of the shoe volume by 1/4".

Even though sizing and custom shoe fitting has become a science, many stores still struggle with conversions between American (inches) and European (metric) sizing. Shoe sizes also vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. But most importantly, remember that sizing is simply a reference.

So if the shoe fits, you may not wear it, but at least you're off to a good start.



About Author :
Jeffrey A. Oster, DPM, C.Ped is a board certified foot and ankle surgeon. Dr. Oster is also board certified in pedorthics. Dr. Oster is medical director of
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