14 Mar 2008 02:11:36 | Dr. Jeffrey A. Oster, Medical Director Of
'If the shoe fits, wear it' is only part of the equation we look
at when fitting shoes. Shoes mean so many different things to so
many people. For some, the primary consideration is style. For
some, it's function. And for others it may be comfort. But more
times than not, shopping for the perfect pair of comfortable
shoes is a struggle. Let's talk a little bit about how we bring
all of these issues together to put a smile on people's faces.
I own a shoe store and I'm often asked "what's the best shoe for
me?" Well, that all depends. 'What's the best shoe for me' is
often a decision that's made first thing in the morning. You're
thinking about your day; that meeting at 11am, lunch with so and
so and the social gathering after work. You're also choosing
your outfit for the day. A charcoal suit, work clothes or a red
dress. Initially, the 'shoe decision' is made based more on
esthetics and function than comfort. It's not until late in the
day that you say to yourself, 'boy, I love these shoes but
they're killing my feet". Our job in the comfort shoe industry
is to find a shoe that fits your criteria for both comfort and
style. As you're getting ready in the morning, if you say
"there's those cute little shoes that make my feet feel so good"
then we know we've done a good job.
Feet have been measured for years by something called a Brannock
Device. The Brannock Device is used to measure three basic
dimensions of the foot; heel to the ball (HB) of the foot , heel
to the tip of the toes (HT) and width. Each of the measurements
obtained using a Brannock Device are used in combination to
custom fit the shoe. The most important measurement is the heel
to the ball of the foot. The HB measurement most closely
resembles how the shoe is designed to function. Although the
heel to toe (HT) measurement may intimately decide the fit of
the shoe, the HB measurement is what makes a shoe feel and
function well. The HB measurement defines the position of the
arch, the length of the shank and the location in the sole where
the shoe will bend with each step. If the HB measurement is
incorrect, the shoe and the foot will never function in harmony,
instead they'll fight each other with each and every step.
Most feet will swell approximately one shoe size (5%) over the
course of a day. It's wise to measure your feet after you've
been on them for several hours. One measurement that The
Brannock Device doesn't measure is volume within the shoe. As
you feet swell, they begin to take up more and more volume
within the shoe. Therefore, try to remember to shop for shoes
later in the day.
The science of shoe fitting, called Pedorthics, is centuries
old. The first documented history of shoe fitting dates back to
1324AD when King Edward II of England decreed that three barley
corns would constitute and inch. He also stated that one barley
corn (1/3") would represent one full shoe size. This custom of
sizing varied so that numerous arguments ensued and most
cobblers went back to the tradition of custom fitting each and
every shoe. The expense of custom shoes was out of reach for
most commoners. For the vast majority of the population, shoes
consisted of two layers of leather, one thick for the sole and
another thin for the top of the shoe. The two layers were sewn
together for a 'custom' fit.
Although we've worn shoes for thousands of years, our current
sizing methods are a mere century old. In 1880, the first
uniform shoe sizing method was introduced in by Edwin B. Simpson
of New York. Simpson's method defined each incremental shoe size
as 1/3" and each half size as 1/6". In addition to a
standardized length size, Simpson defined the heel to ball
measurement and the first proportional relationship between
length and width of the shoe. The measurement of the width of
the shoe increased in increments of 1/4" per increase in shoe
size. Going from an A width to a B would increase the
circumferential measurement of the foot by 1/4". In the same
light, going from a size 7 to a size 8 would also increase the
inner dimension of the shoe volume by 1/4".
Even though sizing and custom shoe fitting has become a science,
many stores still struggle with conversions between American
(inches) and European (metric) sizing. Shoe sizes also vary from
manufacturer to manufacturer. But most importantly, remember
that sizing is simply a reference.
So if the shoe fits, you may not wear it, but at least you're
off to a good start.
About Author :
Jeffrey A. Oster, DPM, C.Ped is a board certified foot and ankle
surgeon. Dr. Oster is also board certified in pedorthics. Dr.
Oster is medical director of