The History of Perfume

The first recorded use of perfume was by the ancient Egyptians. Their religious rituals called for the use of incense and the application of scented balms and unguent or ointment.

Not until the New Kingdom 1580-1085 BC was perfume used in a secular way as perfumed creams and oils and cosmetics and as pre-sex massage oils.

From Egypt the use of perfume spread throughout the ancient world of the Greek and Roman Empires and to the Islamic world. The advent of Christianity saw the decline in the use of perfume as a vain decadence with immoral sexual undertones and it was in the Islamic world that the skill of perfume making was kept alive and continued to develop.

The Crusades in the 12th and 13th centuries saw the reintroduction of perfume to the Christian world brought back by the returning crusaders. Simple floral, herbal and fruit extracts were used to disguise the more unappealing aromas caused the universal distrust of bathing. Perfume was also thought ward off infections and an orange stuffed with cloves was often carried by the wealthy as a protection against the plague.

Perfume making, particularly in France, had developed and grown into a skilled industry by the seventeenth century and the Guild of Glove and Perfume makers was established. The court of King Louise XV was named The Perfumed Court, as it became all the rage to apply perfume to clothing, fans and furniture as well as to the skin. Baths were still an annual occasion in seventeenth century France, even for royalty, so perhaps this was a blessing for all.

The 18th Century saw the creation of Eau de Cologne, a refreshing blend of rosemary, neroli, bergamot and lemon. It was the latest fashion and was used in every way imaginable, mixed with wine, eaten with a sugar lump or as a mouthwash, an enema, or a poultice. It was also added to bath water as by this time the wealthy were overcoming their distrust of washing and cleanliness was becoming the vogue.

The popularity of perfume coincided with the development of decorative glass and perfume was kept in beautiful faceted bottles as a fashion accessory.

The advent of the industrial era in the late 18th century saw the craft of the perfume maker turned into a science. New fragrances and mass production were introduced with France still the major centre of production. This is the time when the famous names in the perfume industry began to emerge, Houbigant, Lubin, Roger & Gallet, Guerlain and Coty.

In 1921 Couturier Gabrielle Chanel launched her own brand of perfume called Chanel no 5, still probably the world's most famous and popular fragrance. The 1930s saw the arrival of the floral fragrances with Worth's Je Reviens, Caron's Fleurs de Rocaille and Jean Patou's Joy. After World War 11 the major fashion houses such as Christian Dior, Jacques Faith, Nina Ricci and Pierre Balmain all rushed to develop and market their own brand.

The 1970s saw the arrival of the inexpensive mass-market perfume with the creation of Revlon's Charlie. Now there are many perfumes in all price ranges to suit everyone.

How to Choose and Wear your Perfume.

Perfume is the ultimate sensory experience and can conjure up emotions and memories. You can use this in two ways. You can create a signature fragrance just for you. Choose a fragrance you like and wear it all the time. Layer it by using a deodorant, body lotion, bath additives, anything available in the same scent. This will make the fragrance last longer so that the scent is present whenever you are. Someone who knows you well will only have to smell a hint of your own special perfume and memories and emotions of the time you spent together will flood back into their mind.

This has limitations however as you must choose a fragrance that is suitable to all occasions, seasons and time of day or night. The alternative is to choose a fragrance that reflects your mood. A light energetic fragrance for work, a soft floral scent for daytime outings or a heavy, sensual perfume for evenings. Your perfume will help create the mood and feelings that most reflect your own and push the occasion in the direction you want it to go.

Fragrance comes in a number of different formulas and it is important to know what you are buying.

Perfume has 22% Fragrance Oils and it is the most long-lasting and concentrated form. This is not used all that often these days, as it is incredibly expensive.

Eau de Parfume is very popular and contains 15-22% fragrance oils. It is still expensive but is a very clean and long-lasting form.

Eau de Toilette and Eau de Cologne contain 4-15% fragrance oils and should be significantly less expensive than the more concentrated forms.

Classically fragrance is divided into three layers of scent called notes. The top note contains the most volatile oils and is the shortest-lived fragrance. The middle note last a little longer and is the dominant, central tone of the fragrance. The base note lasts much longer around 24 hours and it is the combination of these notes that gives the famous fragrances their distinctive smell.

Fragrances can be divided into different families.

A Chypre fragrance contains woody, mossy and floral notes such as Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Bergamot and Vetivert. Examples of a Chypre Fragrance include Cuir de Russe by Chanel. Misouko by Guerlain and Chypre de Coty

Marine Fragrances are a new family of scents that evoke the scent of the sea using an ingredient called Calone. A number of popular modern fragrances like Dolce & Gabana's Feminine, Escape from Calvin Klein and Aquawoman by Rochas are examples of Marine fragrances.

Oriental fragrances are warm, spicy and sweet. They contain ingredients like vanilla and Tonka bean and sometimes the heavy sensual musk oils. Examples include Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, and Coco by Chanel.

The majority of feminine fragrances are floral. Some are a blend of different flower oils with or without additional oil like citrus oil or a single floral note, again with other undernotes added. Examples include, Chanel no 19, Anais Anais by Cacharel, L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci and Dolce Vita by Dior.

Remember perfume can both define you and capture the essence of the moment, make it work for you.